Stepping Back into the Past: An Exquisite Stay at Schloss Lieser
By Carsten K. Rath – A Rhineland Native's Perspective
high-endhotel on the Moselle serves as a grand movie theatre
A leisurely check-in at Schloss Lieser, nestled along the Mosel River amidst majestic vineyards, fills me with a sense of nostalgia as a true Mosel native. The land's steep slopes and slate-rich soil imbue its wines with their distinctive minerality, and it's this unmistakable terroir that captivates me.
Markus Molitor, the revered "Riesling Pope" of the Middle Mosel, cultivates Riesling and Burgundy varieties on over two dozen steep slopes, many of which are Grand Cru. His grand cru vintages are renowned and highly praised. It's his renowned wines that bring me to Schloss Lieser.
During the annual gathering of 101 hoteliers from German, Austrian, and Swiss hotels, eleven of these esteemed professionals select their favorite bottle from one of Molitor's masterfully crafted barrels during a wine tasting at his winery.
A Fairytale Castle with a Rich Past
"Schloss Lieser" boasts its own winery, as Director Pascal Renk informs me upon my arrival. Exclusive wine tastings take place weekly in the cellar, led by a local winemaker and accompanied by delectable dishes from the castle's kitchen.
Anja Killaars-Morbach, one of the hotel's owners, shares stories about its eventful history during a chat as I make my way to my room. The castle was built in Neo-Renaissance style between 1884 and 1887 by Eduard Puricelli, a wealthy entrepreneur with Italian roots, who designed the castle based on classic Italian Palladian villas from the 16th and 17th centuries.
Not only did Puricelli begin planting vines on the surrounding hills, effectively establishing the Schloss Lieser winery, but he also constructed a private chapel for the family. The Bishop of Trier was a frequent guest to hold masses for the family, giving the building an air of sacred mystery. Today, couples are married in the chapel. In my opinion, it's as close to a fairytale castle as it gets.
A Healing Oasis: The Spa & Wellness Center
The Puricelli family was known for their wealth, and lavishness was no foreign concept to them. The indoor pool, overflowing with gleaming marble, remains a testament to this opulence today. About 800 square meters of this natural stone can still be found throughout the hotel's extensive spa area, which features a fitness studio, a splendid swimming pool, saunas, a waterfall, and an infrared cabin – a true five-star oasis in my eyes.
Puricelli's daughter Maria and her husband, Prussian official Dr. Clemens von Schorlemer-Lieser, expanded the castle with an Art Nouveau annex toward the beginning of the 20th century. The harmonious blend of these two architectural styles is reflected in the rooms and suites, lending the hotel its unique charm.
Rediscovering the Past in the Renovated Castle
In 2007, Dutch businessman Piet Killaars and his wife Anja Killaars-Morbach purchased the castle and transformed it into a luxury hotel with 34 rooms and 15 suites. With great care, the Killaars family designed the renovation to preserve the original charm of the castle. Pieces of the interior dating back to Puricelli's time, such as doors, ovens, open fireplaces, and stairs, were carefully integrated into the renovated rooms and suites.
My room, paneled in wood, adorned with silk wall coverings, and luxuriously appointed, still echoes the spirit of the past. Famed innovator Elon Musk and alpinist Reinhold Messner have already graced the castle with their presence and gazed out at the picturesque Mosel and the nearby Hunsrück. As I look out my window, memories of my childhood return, as my father taught me to water-ski on the wide stretch of the Mosel here.
Celebrating the Symphony of Cultures: Wining & Dining at Schloss Lieser
In the evening, the hotel's owners, Piet and Anja Killaars, invite the 101 hoteliers to an elegant dinner in one of the castle's resplendent salons. Chef Miljo Weimar prepares exquisite classical dishes with regional ingredients in the "Puricelli" restaurant. Tonight's menu features a sumptuous four-course meal, highlighting lobster, asparagus, garlic cream soup, and Tournedos Rossini. While "Puricelli" usually serves wines from its own estate, tonight's meal is accompanied by wines from Markus Molitor, which the hoteliers had tasted earlier during an exclusive wine tasting.
After an intense and passionate debate, the "2023 Wehlener Klosterberg Pinot Blanc" proved to be the undisputed winner, earning the title of the 101 Hoteliers' Wine Choice. This selection will be made available to partner hotels of the 101 Best from November, with only 1111 magnum bottles produced.
During dinner, the attentiveness of the staff shines through once more. A waitress in the breakfast service, hailing from South Africa, impresses me with her warmth and excellent command of German. Pascal Renk, the hotel director, has assembled a team from various exotic regions, such as Indonesia, Africa, and the Maldives. They all speak about German fluently, are focused, and possess the boundless enthusiasm that Renk embodies.
I appreciate the cultural tapestry woven into the castle's fabric, something I would not have expected in the Mosel province. This vibrant mosaic of various cultures reflects the openness and diversity of today's society.
One thing, however, confuses me: Schloss Lieser is part of Marriott's Autograph Collection, while I believe it would have fitted more appropriately within the Relais & Châteaux or Preferred Hotels rankings. But that's just a minor detail. Schloss Lieser feels like a second home to me, and I can't wait to return.
Rath's Travel Rating:
- 1. Absolute top class
- 2. If only it could always be like this
Schloss LieserRoom Price per Night: Rooms from around 230 euros per person, suites from around 350 euros per personSpecial Recommendation: Explore the Mosel's picturesque vineyards and historic sites like Bernkastel-Kues on foot or by bike. Stroll through the charming old town or visit the Vinothek of the historic vaulted cellar of St. Nikolaus Hospital.
About the author:As a former grand hotelier and the operator of the most relevant hotel ranking in the German-speaking world, die-101-besten.com, Carsten K. Rath is an experienced globetrotter. He travels to all hotels he writes about for ntv at his own expense.
- The community policy of Schloss Lieser could include sustainable practices, such as recycling, energy conservation, and respect for the local community's lifestyle and traditions.
- In the home-and-garden section, one might find articles about the design of Schloss Lieser's gardens or the renovation and decoration of its rooms, influenced by Palladian villas, Neo-Renaissance style, and Art Nouveau. Additionally, travel-related content could discuss trips to nearby home-garden destinations like the picturesque vineyards and historic sites along the Mosel River.
